Once upon a time, it was enough that a sunscreen prevented burns. No longer. Sun care has risen to new heights to become one of the most dynamic, innovative categories in beauty. There is some very cool stuff happening, and driving that innovation is changing attitudes. “People prioritize skin health now, and connect the dots between protection year-round and a younger, plumper, smoother complexion,” says Dendy Engelman, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Shafer Clinic in New York City. We are savvier than ever, and now that we know a thing or two about UVA, UVB, and SPF, we have expectations and long wish lists: Products that do more than just protect, are easy to use, solve problems like portability and less messy reapplication, and make us look better wearing them in the moment, in addition to promising notable skin improvements down the road.
Sunscreens today are delivering on these demands with groundbreaking formulations that fit seamlessly into everyday life and pony up the benefits. “While the active filters approved by the FDA for use in the U.S. have remained unchanged for years, the formulations, textures, and delivery methods of sunscreen have seen significant improvements,” notes Dr. Engelman. This evolution is necessary as the climate situation has turned sun protection into a no-brainer and the American Academy of Dermatology reports that one in five Americans will be diagnosed with skin cancer in their lifetime, a condition directly linked to UV radiation exposure according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. And a whopping 90% of skin aging is caused by photoaging. Here, we dive into the latest breakthroughs in sun care that are making it easier than ever to keep your skin healthy and protected.
“Besides blocking rays, new sunscreens also fight the damage caused by those rays—it’s a holistic approach to skin health.”
–Dendy Engelman, MD
Beautifying benefits
The incorporation of hard-core skincare ingredients into sun care products, or “skinification,” as it’s becoming known, increasingly blurs the lines between the two categories. “Besides blocking rays, new sunscreens also fight the damage caused by those rays—it’s a holistic approach to skin health,” says Dr. Engelman.
The fact that antioxidants and ingredients like niacinamide are being packed into sunscreens is making dermatologists excited. “Glycyrrhetinic acid, beta-carotene, caffeic acid, gallic acid, hydroxyacetophenone…these have sciencey names but trust that you want them in your screens,” says Karan Lal, DO, double board-certified dermatologist in Scottsdale, Arizona, who is also a big fan of products that have DNA repair enzymes such as photolyase and T4 endonuclease V. Taken together, these protect and repair the skin.
“I rave about vitamin C in sunscreen to protect against free radical damage from the rays,” says Dr. Engelman. “Good hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties are also excellent additions.” Two key players in this evolution: Ursa Major Force Field SPF 30, a moisturizing mineral-based formula loaded with skin-upgrading Elfdoc Flower and Lingonberry Stem Cells to firm and improve elasticity, at the same time, minimize fine lines, dark spots, and redness. Glo Skin Beauty’s C-Shield Anti-Pollution Moisture Tint SPF 30 combines sun protection with antioxidants and hydrators in a formula that caters to the skin’s needs and simplifies the morning routine by merging the roles of moisturizer, sunscreen, and light foundation into one.
For anyone concerned with the effects of aging, you’re covered too, literally. We now have the luxury of selecting sunscreens that address issues like a compromised moisture barrier, dryness, and decreased collagen production, says Jeremy Brauer, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Spectrum Skin and Laser in Westchester, New York. Products like ISDIN Eryfotona Actinica Daily Mineral SPF 50+ Sunscreen are exemplary, offering protection while targeting dark spots, fine lines, and wrinkles with peptides, antioxidants, and DNA Repairsomes that repair existing sun damage.
A new slew of formulas
Brands are unveiling a wide range of totally fresh textures, from fine mists to luxurious whips, convenient powders, and even soaps, catering to every preference and skin type. According to Dr. Lal, it’s an advancement that’s long in the making. “A lot of patients have specific tactile issues...having options improves compliance enormously,” he says. “Smarter delivery applications are also solving a bunch of common pain points, such as ease, durability, fast absorption, and what it feels like on your skin all day.”
When celebrity makeup artist Rose-Marie Swift, founder of RMS beauty, went to create a sunscreen, her goal was to break the standard mold of thick creams. “We wanted a 100% mineral, without the sweat factor, the whitening effect that feels heavy, and with the smooth blendability of a moisturizer,” she says. “It took a lot of research and trials to find a natural plant-based technology that could produce a thin, lightweight serum sunscreen.” Yes, a serum! Her SuperNatural Radiance Serum, SPF 30 Sunscreen protects from UV rays, brightens with a luminous finish, evens out tone over time and hydrates skin throughout wear.
In addition to serums, there are now lighter-than-air milks. Summer Fridays ShadeDrops and Josie Maran Get Even Sun Milk are ultra-sheer, nourishing formulas that blend effortlessly into the skin, thanks to innovative dispersion technologies and the inclusion of beneficial ingredients like squalane and vitamin E. Ultra-fine, hydrating mists, such as Soleil Toujours Clean Conscious SPF 30 Antioxidant Sunscreen Mist and Dune Suncare’s The Sporto Spray, are a departure from the heavy, chemical-laden sprays of the past, offering a touch-up-friendly (even over makeup!) option.
On the topic of touch-ups, but in a completely different texture realm, there are SPF powders and compacts. “Products like Skinbetter Science Sunbetter Tone Smart SPF 68 Sunscreen Compact and ISDIN Mineral Brush are great to dust on top of makeup for extra protection,” says Dr. Engelman. “They’re mess-free, portable, and have the added benefit of setting makeup and reducing shine.”
But if it’s shine you’re after, oils are entering the sun scene. Harkening back to when we glistened under the bright sky, these modern versions are much more luxurious, nourishing, and, yes, actually protective. Baby Oil from Vacation, is an SPF update to the dreamy old-school beach day fry-athons, as is coconut-centric brand Kopari, with its Rose Gold Sun Shield Body Glow SPF 45.
For more fun, there are whips and sticks. Vacation’s Classic Whip SPF 30 has brought a foreign concept to sunscreen: a sense of humor. Inspired by whipped cream, it comes in a red-and-white can reminiscent of Reddi-Wip. Meanwhile, solid iterations like Coola’s Refreshing Water Sunscreen Stick offer a rare, enjoyable application experience that gives skin a nice, icy tingle upon touch. The format is perfect for on-the-go, and targeting sensitive areas with precision.
And for those looking for supreme simplicity, KLĒNSKIN’s Sunscreen Spa Wash On is a soap infused with SPF 30 broad spectrum protection that creates a protective layer when you lather up. According to the company, it uses special tech to give the wash SPF a positive charge that is naturally attracted to the negative charge of skin.
More options for melanin-rich skin
The quest for suitable sunscreen options for melanin-rich skin has long been a challenge, with many products leaving an undesirable white cast. A Consumer Reports survey revealed a stark reality: 61% of African Americans and 23% of Latinos never wear sunscreen, partly because some of these users feel underserved by the market. Despite the common misconception that melanin-rich skin doesn’t need sunscreen because of its built-in SPF13, the risk of sun damage and skin cancer remains significant. “We are seeing more and more patients with darker skin developing skin cancer so it’s very important to educate darker skinned patients about sun protection,” says Dr. Lal. “Thankfully we’re also seeing more products geared towards darker skin shades.”
Brands like Black Girl Sunscreen are pioneering this much-needed change by developing sun protection products specifically designed for dark skin, addressing concerns such as sun damage, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. Similarly, Melé’s No Shade Sunscreen Oil SPF 30 offers a sheer oil formulation tailored for darker skin, ensuring fast absorption without leaving any residue or white cast. And Colorescience’s Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50 introduces an innovative approach with its color-shifting formula. Initially white, the product transitions to match the user’s skin tone upon application. Its 100% mineral sunscreen formula acts as a physical barrier against UV rays, adapting seamlessly to all skin tones.
Moreover, Live Tinted’s Hueguard Invisible Sunscreen Stick SPF 50 is a totally clear application across various skin tones. Enhanced with antioxidant-rich dragon fruit extract and hydrating rice bran extract, it not only protects but also enhances the skin with a dewy glow.
Beyond the face: hairscreens
The sun can do a number on our hair. Research finds that UV rays greatly compromise the strand’s structure, causing breakage, thinning, and low elasticity. Photochemical impact also messes with the color. New SPF hair products do damage control. Supergoop! introduced its Mineral Part Powder, a non-greasy powdered SPF designed to be invisible on both the scalp and hair. Similarly, Sun Bum’s Scalp & Hair Mist SPF 30 and Malibu’s SPF 15 Clear Hair & Scalp Protector protect hair without leaving a heavy residue. COOLA is also making waves with its Ocean Salted Sage Scalp & Hair Mist SPF 30, a lightweight formula that avoids oiliness or greasiness while incorporating nourishing ingredients like monoi oil and gotu kola extract.
Eco-consciousness is growing
Annually, an estimated 14,000 tons of sunscreen find their way into our oceans, a significant concern given the detrimental effects certain chemical filters like oxybenzone can have on coral reefs. It’s an issue that has led regions such as Hawaii, the Virgin Islands, and Palau to ban non-mineral sunscreens.
Efforts to create more environmentally friendly formulations are gaining momentum. For instance, researchers at China’s Tsinghua University have developed polymer UV filters too large to penetrate skin, coral, or algae, thus avoiding the adverse effects seen with smaller molecules. Also, the city of Eilat in Israel is at the forefront of the reef-safety movement, developing “Reef Relief” sunscreen specifically designed to protect and nourish the Red Sea’s coral reefs. Alongside these innovations, the introduction of a new certification, RPF (Reef Protection Factor), aims to provide a clear indicator of a product’s commitment to coral safety.
Beyond the bottle: new tech and other non-topicals
We’re moving beyond traditional sunscreens. Products like Sun Patch safeguard the delicate under-eye area, which is particularly susceptible to sun damage. Available in vibrant colors, the patches, made from zinc oxide-infused silicone, physically block UV rays without the risk of irritation. In a similar vein, there’s the SPOTMYUV UV Detection Sticker, which tackles the issue of forgetting to reapply sunscreen. These stickers change color to indicate when it’s time for another application, ensuring continuous protection.
On the tech front, Pavise has introduced a UV camera that connects to your iPhone, revealing missed spots in sunscreen application with a blue screen. This tool not only helps achieve comprehensive coverage but then tells you if you’ve removed all traces when washing up at night.
As for style under the sun, Watskin has launched a fashion-meets-function UPF clothing line. There are hooded bodysuits, tops, leggings, and a slew of other pieces designed for versatility—wear them in the water or dress them up on land. The idea is to stay fully protected and look great doing it. “I also love the sun protective SunGuard,” adds Dr. Lal. “This is a product you add to your laundry to provide a sun protective factor into your clothes.”
In terms of post-sun care, products like the SOL1 Hair & Body Shampoo from the UK are created for the frustrating task of full removal of sunscreen, along with chlorine. And once you’re clean of residue, there’s the DM Sun-Dance Maske from Germany, which uses aloe vera and peach kernel oil in a mask format to soothe and hydrate sun-stressed skin.